水手连衣裙
水手连衣裙（英语：sailor dress）是依水手服样式设计的连衣裙，这种样式尤见于紧身胸衣与衣领。水手衣领的衬衫称水手衬衫（middy blouse，middy源自midshipman，即海军学校学员）。[1]20世纪初美国以设计水手连衣裙的海军裁缝名之彼得·汤姆森连衣裙（Peter Thomson dress）。[2]
彼得·汤姆森连衣裙
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彼得·汤姆森（或作汤普森，Thompson）[3]1900年左右在美国纽约、费城开设裁缝店。[4]他为妇孺设计的原创水手连衣裙与套装藏于大都会博物馆服装学院、[5]费城艺术博物馆等美国博物馆。[6]彼得·汤姆森连衣裙的夏装以棉或亚麻制成，冬装以羊毛制成。[7]商家宣传其为女学生理想服装，并受试图建立“标准样式”服装者欢迎。[8][9]至1919年，彼得·汤姆森连衣裙成为校服的有效选择，以及“适合14—18岁女孩穿着多年好品味”的代名词。[9]彼得·汤姆森样式亦用于早期泳装的紧身胸衣。[10]
彼得·汤姆森设计流行前，水手样式的连衣裙已广为人知。1887年瑞典，自然腰围与百褶裙的“水手连衣裙”是服装改革运动所提倡适合女孩的设计。[11]
20世纪末21世纪初
[编辑]水手样式有时用于妇人服装，但20世纪中叶以来主要用于婴幼儿的连衣裙。[12]20世纪后期，水手样式与孕妇装联系在一起，导致对水手样式女装的负面印象，以及穿着者“孩子气”的一般观念。[13]孕妇装设计师利兹·兰格说：“她不应仅因有孩子就穿得孩子气；让蹒跚学步的孩子穿水手服是一回事，让成年女子遭受这样的命运完全是另一回事。”[14]
参考文献
[编辑]- ^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. 2011 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780810840041. （原始内容存档于2020-10-20）.
- ^ Brooks Picken, Mary. Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. International textbook company. 1923: 250.
A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy...
- ^ The Flapper 00:29:13
- ^ Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
- ^ Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
- ^ Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers. Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2018-12-04）.
- ^ Mrs. Mathews. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. The Anchora of Delta Gamma. Delta Gamma Fraternity. January 1916: 168 [2022-03-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ Przybyszewski, Linda. Much for Little. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. New York: Basic Books. 2014: 1944 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780465080472. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ 9.0 9.1 Dwyer-McNulty, Sally. School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism 1 [edition]. UNC Press Books. 2014: 102–104 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781469614090. （原始内容存档于2020-09-26）.
- ^ Gold, Annalee. 90 years of fashion
. New York: Fairchild Fashion Group. 1991: 61. ISBN 9780870056802.
- ^ Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent: Kent State University Press. 2003 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780873387422. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille. Technical sourcebook for designers Second. New York: Bloomsbury Pub. 2014: 107 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781609018566. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
- ^ Iovine, Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. Simon and Schuster. 2007: 129, 131, 135 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781416551874. （原始内容存档于2020-08-20）.
- ^ Lange, Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time 1. New York: Clarkson Potter. 2003: 8 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780609809174. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
